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Moderator: kosh
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Hydra Mirage
- Posts: 197
- Joined: Mon Aug 16, 2004 10:55 pm
- Location: LA
You'll definitely need larger pins for kits such as a Jagd Mirage! I think 3mm brass rods are good enough for the job, you'll just have to drill a couple more holes to get a stronger hold. Anything bigger would be hard to cut, I have to put a lot of energy just to cut some 3mm brass rods for pinning.
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elemental
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elemental
I manage up to 3mm diameter with my humble pin vise. Working on 1:100 kits I've rarely had call for anything larger than that. But I did get myself a power drill chuck thingy that works nicely as a pin vise for very large drill bits.John F. Moscato wrote:I wouldn't even TOUCH resin kits of any kind without at the very least a pin-vise and dremel. Pin vise is fine for smaller holes (up to about 1.5mm dia) and that don't have to be too deep.
Eeek. John, you're scaring the resin newbies. I know you are a professional and would have a huge range of nifty tools at your disposal, but I still can't say I have ever needed anything more than a pin vise for this scale of kit.For 1/100 kits especially, I prefer a dremel or a power drill, since you need to make the pinning holes deep enough to get a good hold on the part; especially in the crotch/knee/ankles, where the stress is the greatest.
Good resin is soft. You must do a loooot of drilling, or have a very nasty pin vise.Granted, you can still drill out the holes by hand if you REALLY have to, but you'll be in absolute pain by the end of the day, hence the Dremel's usefulness.
A small hack saw, perhaps? Sure, it is a little messier than just using pliers/cutters, but it's cheap, it works... and fast. Possibly much easier to wield than bolt cutters, too.KOG wrote:I stick with pin vise when I can for the moment, mostlt because I don't have a good tool for cutting the thicker pins to size.
Some resin kits do you polycaps. In terms of gundam resins, they are often called 'full action kits'. Most of the poseable FSS stuff is from Volks MM (Mechanical Moving) series.
Poseable resins generally have a lot more parts than fixed pose resins. And the heaviness of resin tends to make these kits very floppy and droopy if you don't handle the joints just right. I tend to prefer fixed pose kits.
By the way, amusingly enough, most Wave kits will take a lot more time and effort to build properly than a nice decent resin.
Mostly because of all the work needed to clean up the seams....
Poseable resins generally have a lot more parts than fixed pose resins. And the heaviness of resin tends to make these kits very floppy and droopy if you don't handle the joints just right. I tend to prefer fixed pose kits.
By the way, amusingly enough, most Wave kits will take a lot more time and effort to build properly than a nice decent resin.
Mostly because of all the work needed to clean up the seams....FSS is totally emo wrote:well, thanks for all the advice, and yeah, i asked around and the FSS kits are way different than anything bandai makes- but i heard they do use polycaps sometimes (true? false?). i dont know if i have the time necessary to do FSS resin modeling (with school, work, being in a band, and whatnot), but I do have two WAVE plastic kits coming in the mail- a KOG and a LED Mirage.
Over time, I've found I love almost every FSS design. Even the Maglow. I've always liked FSS for the weirdness and uniqueness of the designs, and Boowray definitely fits the weird/unique category. And Empress has a charm all its own, the kneeling pose kit is GREAT.
The only 2 designs in all of FSS that I really have no liking for are the old style Barunja and Devoncha.
I've always liked FSS for the weirdness and uniqueness of the designs, and Boowray definitely fits the weird/unique category. And Empress has a charm all its own, the kneeling pose kit is GREAT.The only 2 designs in all of FSS that I really have no liking for are the old style Barunja and Devoncha.
actually, i LOVE every other design and FSS is my fav manga. its just that the Boowray and Flame Empress dont tickle my mecha fancy.
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John F. Moscato
- Posts: 214
- Joined: Mon Sep 20, 2004 1:24 am
...On the topic of Volks' MM series, I can describe them perfectly with one word: garbage.
Aside from the small size of the kits, their ball-joint system never worked, as the tension of the ball/socket was nowhere near enough to support the weight of a resin model, so your built-up A-Toll or Ashura Temple would be dangerously flimsy at best... And as luck would have it, the plastic used for the sockets themselves is shoddy: ALL my socket joints split wide-open after a mere 2-3 weeks. That's EXACTLY what you want to see on a $300+ resin model
As for drill bits going dull: yes, they do with time. Not so much from drilling into resin; more because I use my bits to drill into materials such as steel, carbon-fiber, brass, as well as a few other things.
Aside from the small size of the kits, their ball-joint system never worked, as the tension of the ball/socket was nowhere near enough to support the weight of a resin model, so your built-up A-Toll or Ashura Temple would be dangerously flimsy at best... And as luck would have it, the plastic used for the sockets themselves is shoddy: ALL my socket joints split wide-open after a mere 2-3 weeks. That's EXACTLY what you want to see on a $300+ resin model
As for drill bits going dull: yes, they do with time. Not so much from drilling into resin; more because I use my bits to drill into materials such as steel, carbon-fiber, brass, as well as a few other things.
John F. Moscato
I have somewhat similar feelings about MM kits. But it should be noted that later MM kits, such as Siren F, Alkana, V sirens, Bibros... are a good size, comparable to the latest Volks offerings, and comparable to WSC.
And it's also important to note that MM is still the only place to find 1/100 representations of many MH, including Alkana, Eleshis, Siren F, Engage mk II, Last Junchoon, and more.
So I wouldn't advise anyone to ignore the MM line... just know what you're getting into. I definitely plan to build all of my MM kits as fixed pose projects, I won't even mess with trying to keep them poseable.
And it's also important to note that MM is still the only place to find 1/100 representations of many MH, including Alkana, Eleshis, Siren F, Engage mk II, Last Junchoon, and more.
So I wouldn't advise anyone to ignore the MM line... just know what you're getting into. I definitely plan to build all of my MM kits as fixed pose projects, I won't even mess with trying to keep them poseable.
John F. Moscato wrote:...On the topic of Volks' MM series, I can describe them perfectly with one word: garbage.
Aside from the small size of the kits, their ball-joint system never worked, as the tension of the ball/socket was nowhere near enough to support the weight of a resin model, so your built-up A-Toll or Ashura Temple would be dangerously flimsy at best... And as luck would have it, the plastic used for the sockets themselves is shoddy: ALL my socket joints split wide-open after a mere 2-3 weeks. That's EXACTLY what you want to see on a $300+ resin model
As for drill bits going dull: yes, they do with time. Not so much from drilling into resin; more because I use my bits to drill into materials such as steel, carbon-fiber, brass, as well as a few other things.
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John F. Moscato
- Posts: 214
- Joined: Mon Sep 20, 2004 1:24 am
Hi KoG.
Wasn't the Bibros an AF series model?
Actually, on the topic of Volks' Last Junchoon... Could anyone who has the kit tell me how tall it is in a standing pose?
I used to have the WSC Junchoon which I wasn't completely happy with, and oddly, it was even smaller (IIRC) than the older Volks AF Junchoon, which I thought had MUCH nicer peoportions... Too bad the detail on that kit was so muddy
Wasn't the Bibros an AF series model?
Actually, on the topic of Volks' Last Junchoon... Could anyone who has the kit tell me how tall it is in a standing pose?
I used to have the WSC Junchoon which I wasn't completely happy with, and oddly, it was even smaller (IIRC) than the older Volks AF Junchoon, which I thought had MUCH nicer peoportions... Too bad the detail on that kit was so muddy
John F. Moscato
Cormals/Bibros first came out in AF series, yes. But a new Bibros/Cormals also came out towards the end of the MM series. Totally new sculpt. And with armor skirts that looked markedly different from the AF. All in all, I prefer the look of the MM.Wasn't the Bibros an AF series model?
I have one, but it's all un-assembled in box. I think Sheizzel may have one, and he may have done a test build? I'm not sure though.Actually, on the topic of Volks' Last Junchoon... Could anyone who has the kit tell me how tall it is in a standing pose?
Hm. I'm actually looking to buy an original WSC junchoon soon, I thought it was rather nice... bummer that the original doesn't come with the peidoll spire though.I used to have the WSC Junchoon which I wasn't completely happy with, and oddly, it was even smaller (IIRC) than the older Volks AF Junchoon, which I thought had MUCH nicer peoportions... Too bad the detail on that kit was so muddy
Ah!, good ol'MM series discussion 
. Yep, there was a MM Cormal/Bibros. It is one of the more popular MM kits on YJ based on the bidding, although it does not pop up a lot.
I only have a few MM kits, majority being newer MM kits and I think they are nicely done. Towards the end of MM series kits, the size of the kits seem to be bigger. Engage SR1 for example is about the equal size of the Mighty Series and SAV Vatshu, obvious not as bulky as some of the heavily armored MHs.
As for Last Junchoon, like KOG said, I was doing a test build but have taken it apart. I'll try to set up the kit and find out how tall it stands. Last Junchoon has sculpted on ball shaped joints similar to WSC except Volks had small spikes on them. It's rather annoying to work withthose since you might sand them too much that the joitns will be loose. And if you don't sand them, they'll damage the p-caps. So to solve the problem, I purchased extra sets of Volks MM units and replace the joints that was originally on the kit. I was happy with the result because it fits perfectly tight .
Speaking of WSC Junchoon, both KOG and myself thought that it was one, if not the best Junchoon ODK out there. I hope one day I can see how this kit is for myself...
. Yep, there was a MM Cormal/Bibros. It is one of the more popular MM kits on YJ based on the bidding, although it does not pop up a lot. I only have a few MM kits, majority being newer MM kits and I think they are nicely done. Towards the end of MM series kits, the size of the kits seem to be bigger. Engage SR1 for example is about the equal size of the Mighty Series and SAV Vatshu, obvious not as bulky as some of the heavily armored MHs.
As for Last Junchoon, like KOG said, I was doing a test build but have taken it apart. I'll try to set up the kit and find out how tall it stands. Last Junchoon has sculpted on ball shaped joints similar to WSC except Volks had small spikes on them. It's rather annoying to work withthose since you might sand them too much that the joitns will be loose. And if you don't sand them, they'll damage the p-caps. So to solve the problem, I purchased extra sets of Volks MM units and replace the joints that was originally on the kit. I was happy with the result because it fits perfectly tight
.Speaking of WSC Junchoon, both KOG and myself thought that it was one, if not the best Junchoon ODK out there. I hope one day I can see how this kit is for myself...