Just a question...

Sheizzel · Post by **Sheizzel** » Fri Mar 03, 2006 1:10 am

V-Siren wrote:ok cool.....

I think im gonna get a plastic model first....i think maybe last junchoon...or so..although i wanted the gold plated kog...

If you think assembling a resin kit is difficult, wait till you're building the plastic kits. Major headaches!

V-Siren · Post by **V-Siren** » Fri Mar 03, 2006 1:18 am

gah....lol...algthough that looks cool...how do you know how deep you need to drill...and how big and....wow...

KOG · Post by **KOG** » Fri Mar 03, 2006 1:20 am

V-Siren wrote:gah....lol...algthough that looks cool...how do you know how deep you need to drill...and how big and....wow...

The quality of the old plastic Junchoon kit is actually rather poor.

It's not as 'good' as modern bandai gundam kits.

Junchoon is moulded in just one color (white), requires glue, and has some real parts fit problems.

How deep to drill? Deep enough to insert the pin, but not deep enough to drill all the way through the part.

How big? Big holes and big pins when joining 2 large parts, small holes and pins when joining 2 small parts.

Sheizzel · Post by **Sheizzel** » Fri Mar 03, 2006 1:22 am

V-Siren wrote:gah....lol...algthough that looks cool...how do you know how deep you need to drill...and how big and....wow...

How big or deep of a hole to drill is entirely up to you, as long as you don't drill through the parts. The size of pre-marked holes on a FSS resin kit are usually 1mm and 2mm. You can just cut the brass rod according to how deep you've drilled the hole.

Both Kotobukiya and Wave sell different sizes of brass rod.

http://www.hlj.com/product/KBYML02

V-Siren · Post by **V-Siren** » Fri Mar 03, 2006 1:28 am

Ahh cool cool....ok...so im starting to get it...now to actually try it out....hmm...i still need to find myself something not that expensive...

What would be the cheapest one to get...i dotn wanna get a super expensive one and ruin it on first try...

Sheizzel · Post by **Sheizzel** » Fri Mar 03, 2006 1:30 am

KOG is selling his White Phantom for cheap

.

V-Siren · Post by **V-Siren** » Fri Mar 03, 2006 1:32 am

Ya i saw that he he...

I actually thaught of getting it....need dad to do it though...i dunno how all this paypal etc etc stuff work...plus im in canada...so shipping fees and blah blah...but im interested thats fo sho...

for the phantom though...does it have to be white?...i saw a black and a red one...can i paint this one in those schemes or..do they have thier own kits?

Sheizzel · Post by **Sheizzel** » Fri Mar 03, 2006 1:35 am

Just so you know, each of the Phantoms look slightly different in appearance.

V-Siren · Post by **V-Siren** » Fri Mar 03, 2006 1:38 am

ohh ok cool...dint know...thaught they were all the same

Falk · Post by **Falk** » Fri Mar 03, 2006 1:41 am

It HAS to be white, if you paint it any other color, police breaks into your home and you're good for jail.

(A more serious answer would be that MHs are more pieces of art than a mere robot (teehee, someone told me the same thing a few years ago wen I asked why there was not many weathering done on MHs^^), so MH kit builders usually represent the orignal as good as possible and don't often try custom color sheme, it often look out of place.
Red Phantom has it's own kit, but it's not that much different from the white one (I mean the MH, not the pose), just more hair, and a few lines on the ankle armor. Black Phantom has no kit, but it sports a different shield, if manga version if the official one).

elemental · Post by **elemental** » Fri Mar 03, 2006 11:11 am

Falk wrote:It HAS to be white, if you paint it any other color, police breaks into your home and you're good for jail.

It's true... my White Phantom is a very pale grey, and I got 12 months community service. That's why I haven't had time to do any more MH since Phantom.

White Phantom

Norsehound · Post by **Norsehound** » Thu Apr 13, 2006 7:44 am

I don't know if necromancy is punishable by death here, or even if this is considered necromancy, but I thought it would be better to bring to life an existing thread rather than start a new one on the same topic some spaces up.

Anyway I, too, am interested in FSS modeling, as one cannot get more ornate and more fantastic than an FSS model, anywhere (not even those fancy gundam models come close...well...maybe Sentinel...anyway), the only plastic kits (affordable) ones available through HLJ aren't ones of MHs I'd like to have really... the only one that seems reasonable is the LED, and that seems common and plain stacked next to other MHs. I thought about going Reisn.

But like the OP, I'm a little hesitant about going into resin, but I'm not as inexperienced as he is.

I play Warhammer 40K, and for anyone who isn't familiar with it, I've worked with pewter, sanding and cleaning models, and painting them from base metal and base plastic. What I want to know is, how much different is a resin model from bare plastic/pewter? And no, I've never worked with a forgeworld.

So, some questions:

1. How bad can assembling a resin be? Is cleanup really that bad? I have files from my 40K assemling... will they work?

2. Posters here seem to suggest using a hand drill and brass tubing for pinning. Hand drills are sold for 40k- so can I use that and get away with paperclips in place of the tubing? And how hard is pinning in this instance, anyway?

3. Must I wash every bit and part of a resin kit in order to make them 'presentable?'

4. For painting, should I just use the primer spray that GW produces, or is there a special process in priming the model? Does it need to be primed at all even, or will this have some strange effect with the resin and I shouldn't prime them at all?

5. How soft is the resin? Soft enough to crumble if handled seriously or durable like plastic? Would it suffer serious damage through a mistake or should it be handled like glass?

6. Does Resin chip easily and if so, is there a way to prevent this/special coating paint?

7. where can I get the Bang Doll / A-Toll Swans for a "reasonable" price (i.e., lowest)

8. How intimidating can Resin kits be part-wise? (a zillion tiny peices- the toroso are all rendered in seperate 'links')(Best keep everything in the box, number everything, etx).

9. Are there any brands I should avoid when working with reisn? Are there any chemical dangers involved or can I work with them in my garage/porch/room?

10. Are decails provided or should I go hunting for a 0 sized brush? (And modlers' preference: Would you use decals are are most of the decals on the MHs here hand-painted?)

Yeah... a load of questions, but I have never worked with reisn kits before and there have always been concerns of mine. I love the FSS mortar headds, but price and experience have been barriers to me that I need to cross one way or another if I want that Bang Doll standing on my desk giving me silent inspiration...

Thanks in advance,
Norsehound

jinnai · Post by **jinnai** » Thu Apr 13, 2006 11:01 am

Norsehound wrote:I don't know if necromancy is punishable by death here, or even if this is considered necromancy, but I thought it would be better to bring to life an existing thread rather than start a new one on the same topic some spaces up.

Anyway I, too, am interested in FSS modeling, as one cannot get more ornate and more fantastic than an FSS model, anywhere (not even those fancy gundam models come close...well...maybe Sentinel...anyway), the only plastic kits (affordable) ones available through HLJ aren't ones of MHs I'd like to have really... the only one that seems reasonable is the LED, and that seems common and plain stacked next to other MHs. I thought about going Reisn.

But like the OP, I'm a little hesitant about going into resin, but I'm not as inexperienced as he is.

I play Warhammer 40K, and for anyone who isn't familiar with it, I've worked with pewter, sanding and cleaning models, and painting them from base metal and base plastic. What I want to know is, how much different is a resin model from bare plastic/pewter? And no, I've never worked with a forgeworld.

So, some questions:

1. How bad can assembling a resin be? Is cleanup really that bad? I have files from my 40K assemling... will they work?

Land Raiders/Rhino's/Land Speeders have worse seams. Cleanup is only bad if the mold is misaligned(recast, sometimes original.. but rarely.) Sanding is pretty simple.

2. Posters here seem to suggest using a hand drill and brass tubing for pinning. Hand drills are sold for 40k- so can I use that and get away with paperclips in place of the tubing? And how hard is pinning in this instance, anyway?

Paperclips work fine, but for better strength use a bigger pin. I finally made the move from paperclips to brass, and I regret now not doing it sooner.

3. Must I wash every bit and part of a resin kit in order to make them 'presentable?'

Yes. But it's to remove mold release and other junk. I wash twice: once before cleaning/sanding/pinning, and once again before priming.

4. For painting, should I just use the primer spray that GW produces, or is there a special process in priming the model? Does it need to be primed at all even, or will this have some strange effect with the resin and I shouldn't prime them at all?

Citadel primer is good sh**. Use it. Just don't spray too heavily. The detail is as fine as a metal mini.

5. How soft is the resin? Soft enough to crumble if handled seriously or durable like plastic? Would it suffer serious damage through a mistake or should it be handled like glass?

It isn't "soft" perse, it won't crumble, and it's like plastic, but harder. Don't handle it like glass.

6. Does Resin chip easily and if so, is there a way to prevent this/special coating paint?

YES IT DOES. And the only way to prevent it is by executing extreme care during handling.

7. where can I get the Bang Doll / A-Toll Swans for a "reasonable" price (i.e., lowest)

If you're after WSC, HLJ have A-Toll in stock. Maybe Bang Doll also? (except WSC bang is ugly as sin). None of the big 3 (hlj, rainbowten, hobbysearch) have either in stock. Recast.. might be available, but not worth the headache, unless you're unwilling to spend $200+.

8. How intimidating can Resin kits be part-wise? (a zillion tiny peices- the toroso are all rendered in seperate 'links')(Best keep everything in the box, number everything, etx).

Only Jagd Mirage (any scale) and Tani sculpts are partsy kits. Most are roughly around 100 pcs, and there's no real small parts there (except for faces/jaws/teeth/cables/etc).

9. Are there any brands I should avoid when working with reisn?

Yep, WSC.

Are there any chemical dangers involved or can I work with them in my garage/porch/room?

Resin dust, in mass quanitites, can cause breathing issues like smoking can. Not good. Wet sand if you must. (I don't.)

10. Are decails provided or should I go hunting for a 0 sized brush? (And modlers' preference: Would you use decals are are most of the decals on the MHs here hand-painted?)

Some kits have decals, others don't. Generally speaking you won't really need to paint fine fine fine detail by hand, as nearly all of it is sculpted on.

Yeah... a load of questions, but I have never worked with reisn kits before and there have always been concerns of mine. I love the FSS mortar headds, but price and experience have been barriers to me that I need to cross one way or another if I want that Bang Doll standing on my desk giving me silent inspiration...

Thanks in advance,
Norsehound

Just be aware: recast = cheap. If you want the extra work, then be cheap and buy a recast. But from my experience with FSS recasts, they're really, truely, not worth it whatsoever. Best to save up that other 50% and get an original.

Norsehound · Post by **Norsehound** » Thu Apr 13, 2006 11:17 am

Forgive my ignorance, but WSC....?

Due to expenses (no job atm), I might just have to fold and go for a recast just to see what I'm getting into. If it's really really really worth it, then maybe I'll hunt down that Atoll to paint it green and give it a nice custom. Hey, people loved my hand-painted runes for my Eldar Wraithlord.

The problem is really finding these things. HLJ has a bunch, but while they have something like a bazillion KoGs on the market, there are hardly any of the better MHs out there (let alone in affordable prices).

Thanks for the answers Jinnai!

elemental · Post by **elemental** » Thu Apr 13, 2006 11:32 am

***WARNING***WARNING***WARNING***

The previous post by Jinnai contains severe anti-WSC bias.

***********************************

Some WSC kits are far superior to their volks counterparts, and other volks kits are far superior to their WSC counterparts.

Don't let other people's opinions of a particular kit determine if you will buy it or not. If you like WSC, buy wsc. If you like volks, buy volks.